Cashmere: the Noblest of Noble Fibres?
Cashmere: Chronicle of a Coveted Cloth
From the Heights of the Himalayas
High in the Himalayas on the roof of the world, where winds are furious and constant, and the frost bites deep, it is a hard life. But the goats are clad in nature’s finest.
Up here at great altitude lies the origin of one of the world’s most treasured fibres—cashmere. Cherished for centuries, combed from the soft undercoat of the Changthangi goat, this is the finest of wools. Often known as simply the cashmere goat, these resilient creatures have adapted over hundreds of generations to thrive in this harsh climate by developing a fine, downy undercoat to preserve them from the ferocious cold. This precious fibre, known as pashm, is valued not just for its softness, but for its extraordinary quality of warmth that whispers of a life spent in the bitter embrace of the highest deserts and mountains on earth.
The cold of the Himalayas is unlike anything else. It doesn’t just freeze the body; it penetrates the soul. 'Letters from Everest' by George Mallory.
Building on the timeless legacy of natural fibres, like our recent reflection on seven thousand years of wool, cashmere stands as another testament to the enduring beauty and utility of what nature provides.
The Origins of the Cashmere Goat
The story of the cashmere goat begins around 3000 BCE in the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas, particularly in what is now Kashmir, Tibet, and Mongolia. These goats, especially the Changthangi breed, evolved in response to the severe cold of these mountainous regions, by developing a dual-layered coat. The outer layer is coarse, protecting the goat from harsh winds, snows and the environment, while the undercoat, known as cashmere, is incredibly fine, soft, and insulating. The fibres of this undercoat measure a mere 12-14 microns in diameter, making it one of the finest and most coveted natural fibres on the planet. The higher the altitude and harsher the weather, the finer the fibres of the coat.
The Beginnings of the Cashmere Trade
The trade of cashmere began to flourish between the 13th and 15th centuries, with the Kashmiris leading the way in transforming this fine fibre into luxurious shawls. These shawls gained immense popularity during the Mughal Empire, particularly under the reign of Emperor Akbar (1556–1605), who was a great patron of the Kashmiri shawl industry. By the early 19th century, cashmere shawls had become a symbol of luxury across Europe, highly coveted by the aristocracy. The Silk Road played a crucial role in spreading these exquisite textiles westward, marking the beginning of cashmere's global journey as one of the world’s most luxurious fibres.
Pashm: what's in a name?
The word "pashm" comes from the Persian language, meaning "wool" or "soft wool." (Persian was a lingua franca of a huge area including Kashmir in medieval times.) Pashm specifically refers to the fine undercoat of the Himalayan goats, particularly the Changthangi goat, from which the luxurious fibre is harvested. The word "cashmere" is derived from "Kashmir," the region in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, where this fine wool was first processed. Over time, "cashmere" has come to denote the luxurious fabric made from pashm, symbolizing not only the material's origin but also its association with unparalleled softness and quality.
Changthangi goats in Ladakh
Kashmiri Craft: The Looms of Legacy
As the art of cashmere weaving evolved, Kashmiri artisans perfected the craft of transforming raw pashm into shawls of breathtaking beauty and warmth. By the 17th and 18th centuries, these shawls became highly sought after by European and Asian elites, symbolising sophistication and status. Today, this tradition continues with our own [collection of handcrafted Kashmiri shawls](https://www.thewoolcompany.co.uk/collections/pashminas-shawls), each piece echoing the elegance of its storied past.
For those fascinated by the intricate artistry of Kashmiri textiles, explore the captivating history of the Kashmiri Ikat Pashmina Shawl and the hand-embroidered Kashmiri cashmere shawls that have become synonymous with luxury.
A Continental Journey
As trade routes expanded and cultural exchanges flourished, so too did the reputation of cashmere. In the 19th century, this exquisite fabric journeyed from the high Mongolian and Tibetans plateaus to the stately homes of Europe, where it became the epitome of elegance and luxury. The Industrial Revolution brought mechanisation, making woven wools more accessible to the masses, yet the most prized pieces remained those crafted by hand—each one a testament to the skill and dedication of its maker. Today, cashmere is more than just a fabric; it is a legacy of luxury, woven into the very fabric of history.
For more on the fascinating journey of wool through the ages, take a look at our history of wool in fashion blog post, which explores how these noble fibres have shaped the world of textiles.
Sustainability and the Ethical Choice of Kashmiri and Tibetan Cashmere
While cashmere is universally revered for its luxurious softness and warmth, not all cashmere is created equal, particularly when it comes to sustainability. Kashmiri and Tibetan cashmere, sourced from the Changthangi goats of the Himalayan regions, is often considered more sustainable than its Chinese counterpart. This is due to the traditional nomadic herding practices in Kashmir, where nomadic goatherds allow their flocks to graze freely across vast, natural pastures. These practices promote biodiversity and avoiding overgrazing, ensuring that the delicate ecosystems of the Himalayas remain intact. In contrast, the large-scale, industrial cashmere production in parts of China has raised concerns about environmental degradation and the depletion of pasturelands due to overgrazing.
Moreover, the process of harvesting cashmere in these regions is a testament to the gentle and humane treatment of the animals. In these regions the goatherds have a year round close relationship with their herds. In the spring, when the goats naturally shed their winter coats, herders carefully comb the undercoat to collect the soft pashm. This method is not only cruelty-free and is much like grooming a pet dog, but also beneficial for the goats, as it removes the excess hair that they no longer need in the warmer months and which they would shed naturally if it were not combed. Unlike shearing, which can be stressful for the animals, combing is a soothing process that aligns with the natural cycle of the goats' lives.
Supporting Nomadic Communities through Ethical Cashmere
By choosing to buy cashmere from sustainable sources, consumers are supporting the livelihoods of poor nomadic goatherds who depend on this trade. These herders, almost always live in remote and harsh environments and rely on the income generated from cashmere to sustain their communities. Supporting sustainable cashmere practices not only ensures that the goats are treated humanely, but also helps preserve the traditional way of life for these nomadic peoples. It is a purchase that reflects both a commitment to luxury and to the ethical, ecological, and social pillars of sustainability.
Sustainability: The New Standard of Splendour
In a world where sustainability is not just an option but a necessity, the cashmere industry is evolving. Today’s producers are committed to practices that ensure the well-being of both the environment and the communities that depend on cashmere production. Responsible grazing, fair trade, and support for local herders are becoming the norm, ensuring that cashmere continues to be a symbol of luxury that also respects our planet. At The Wool Company, our [commitment to sustainable practices](https://www.thewoolcompany.co.uk/pages/our-values) is reflected in every step of our production process.
You can find out more about the sustainability of wool here.
And for those who cherish their cashmere, our cashmere care guide offers tips to ensure your treasured pieces remain as splendid as the day they were first worn.